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Tsunami

Earth science · Ocean hazards

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How can a wave less than a metre high in the open ocean become a wall of water that floods a city?

A tsunami starts when an undersea earthquake suddenly lifts the sea floor, pushing up the whole ocean above it. The bulge spreads out as waves that race across deep water as fast as a jet plane, yet are so low that ships barely notice them. Near the coast the water gets shallow, the waves slow down and pile up, and they surge far inland.

A tsunami is a series of very long ocean waves generated when a large volume of water is suddenly displaced, most often by vertical seafloor motion in a subduction-zone megathrust earthquake. Because its wavelength far exceeds the ocean depth it travels as a shallow-water wave at √(gd), crossing ocean basins at jet-aircraft speed and growing dramatically as it slows over the continental shelf.

Key facts

Deep-ocean speed
≈ 200 m/s (≈ 710 km/h) over 4000 m of water
Deep-ocean wavelength
≈ 100–500 km
Deep-ocean height
typically < 1 m
Wave period
≈ 5–60 min
Main source
≈ 80% of tsunamis occur in the Pacific, mostly from subduction earthquakes
Largest recorded run-up (earthquake)
≈ 40 m (Tōhoku, Japan, 2011)

Parts you can explore (11)

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